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- What affects your credit score?
What affects your credit score?
Short answer
Five things: payment history, how much you owe relative to your limits, how long you have had credit, how much new credit you have applied for, and what mix of credit types you handle. Payment history and amounts owed together account for roughly two thirds of a FICO score.
This answers: What affects your credit score?
Key takeaways
- Paying on time and keeping balances low is not one tip among many — it is most of the model.
- A single payment 30 days late does more damage than a high balance, and stays on your report far longer.
- Checking your own credit is a soft inquiry and never affects your score.
- Closing an old card can lower your score by removing both its limit and, eventually, its history.
On this page
Payment history — around 35%
Whether you paid on time, and if not, how late and how recently. This is the single heaviest factor in the model and the slowest to repair.
A payment is generally only reported to the bureaus once it is 30 days past due. Being a few days late will likely cost you a late fee from the issuer, but it does not usually appear on your credit report. Past 30 days, it does — and the damage scales with how late: 30, 60, 90, 120+ days are each worse than the last.
Negative marks generally remain on a credit report for seven years from the date of the delinquency. Their weight fades over time — a late payment from six years ago counts for far less than one from six months ago — but it does not disappear before then.
Amounts owed — around 30%
Mostly credit utilization: your balances relative to your credit limits, measured both in aggregate and per card. Also the number of accounts carrying a balance, and how much of an installment loan you have paid down.
This is the fastest-moving factor. Unlike payment history, it carries no memory — bring your reported balances down and the effect shows up on the next report update.
Length of credit history — around 15%
The age of your oldest account, the average age across all accounts, and how long since each was used.
You cannot accelerate this. You can avoid damaging it: closing your oldest card removes it from the average once it eventually drops off your report, and opening several new accounts at once pulls the average down immediately.
New credit — around 10%
Applications and recently opened accounts. Each application usually creates a hard inquiry, which can knock a small number of points off and generally stays visible for two years, though most models only count it for one.
Rate shopping is treated differently. Multiple inquiries for the same type of loan — mortgage, auto, student — within a short window are typically counted as one, so comparing lenders on a single loan is not penalized as several applications. Credit card applications do not get that treatment.
Soft inquiries never affect your score. Checking your own credit, a card issuer pre-screening you, an existing lender reviewing your account — none of these count.
Credit mix — around 10%
Whether you handle both revolving credit (cards, lines of credit) and installment credit (auto loans, mortgages, student loans).
This is the lightest factor and the one least worth acting on. Taking out a loan you do not need in order to improve your mix costs you interest to gain a handful of points. Do not.
Things that do not affect your credit score
| Belief | Reality |
|---|---|
| Checking my own score hurts it | Soft inquiry. No effect, ever. |
| My income is part of my score | Income is not on your credit report. |
| Carrying a small balance builds credit faster | It does not. Paying in full builds the same history without interest. |
| Using a debit card builds credit | Debit activity is not reported to the bureaus. |
| Closing a paid-off card helps | It usually hurts — you lose the limit, and eventually the history. |
| Being turned down lowers my score | The application's inquiry counts; the decision does not. |
| My spouse's debt is on my report | Only for joint accounts or accounts you co-signed. |
The order to work in
- Get current, stay current. Every other action is worth less than this one.
- Bring reported balances down. The fastest available improvement — try the credit utilization calculator to see what repaying a specific amount does.
- Stop applying for things. Give new inquiries and new accounts time to age.
- Read your report and dispute what is wrong. Errors are common, and correcting one can move a score more than months of good behavior.
- Wait. Age is a factor you can only earn.
Run the numbers
Credit utilization calculator
What is my credit utilization?
Sources
- How do I get and keep a good credit score?Consumer Financial Protection Bureau
- What is a credit inquiry?Consumer Financial Protection Bureau
- Disputing Errors on Your Credit ReportsFederal Trade Commission
Educational information only. This page explains how something works in the United States. It is not financial advice and does not take account of your circumstances. Rates, fees and eligibility change without notice — check the provider’s own terms before you act.
For free, impartial guidance, see Consumer Financial Protection Bureau. To complain about a firm, contact the CFPB complaint database.
Related guides
What Is a Credit Score? How Yours Is Calculated
A credit score is a number lenders use to estimate how likely you are to repay. Here is what goes into it, what does not, and why you have more than one.
Credit Utilization: What It Is and How to Lower It
Credit utilization is the share of your available credit you are using. It is one of the heaviest factors in your score — and the fastest one to change.
How Long Does It Take to Build Credit?
From no credit file to a usable score takes about six months. Getting to a strong score takes years — and here is what actually governs the timeline.